Breaking News! The new 30th Anniversary Patek Philippe Nautilus - An Icon is Reborn.
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Singapore, 12th October 2006.
The watch shown here is the White Gold version of 5712, for the first time in strap.
Jaw notes:
At the time of posting, the International print and internet media invited by Patek Philippe Geneva should soon be gathering inside a room for an early 6.30pm dinner, anticipating the full range of the completely new 30th Anniversary Nautilus models to be unveiled.
Ref 5712, shown is the pink Gold version, also available in White Gold and Stainless Steel, case width 43mm, case length 44mm, small seconds, date, moon phase, based on Cal. 240PS.
Possibly 6 different Nautilus, a new 5712 in straps, a very exciting chronograph etc. (we may disclose the more specific details of all 6 after the Patek’s Dinner in Switzerland) to be unveiled on 11th October 2006 Switzerland evening. The large number of watches to be launched outside Basel Fair is unusual for a very conservative and traditional top brand like Patek Phillippe.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5960 Annual Calendar Chronograph, The combination of very traditional Patek Colours curiously created a very young and contemporary "look and feel", see the similar mono hours, minutes and seconds counter with the new 2006 Ref.5980 Nautilus Chronograph.
Following the launch of the Ref. 5960 Annual Calendar Chronograph in early 2006, an exciting watch using clever combinations of dial colours. The mesmerising use of very traditional Patek grey, white, blue and red gives a surprisingly fresh, contemporary and young look. This is perceived by some as an atempt by Patek to "widen" its current market segment.
Ref 5712, shown white gold and pink gold version, Stainless Steel also available, case width 43mm, case length 44mm, small seconds, moon phase, date, cal. 240PS.
While there is no doubt the much anticipated and iconic Nautilus from this top haute horlogerie brand will be very popular, there are unconfirmed rumours that the models will be priced to sell (by no means cheap), and might make the already strong Patek Philippe’s presence in the high end watch market to spread beyond the deadly serious technical collectors and fans.
We believe that this is a signal that the young Thiery Stern is becoming more assertive as he has proved his worth and has earned the initial trust and confidence of his legendary father, Mr. Philippe Stern. Possibly, the Sterns may also be increasingly irritated by wide-ranging claims by relatively new and what the brand considered as lesser players; who are making "wild" claims on the highly technical segments. Probably including the "perceived" sudden increase in quantities of watches receiving the prestigious Geneva Seals.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5800, cal. 330SC, central seconds, date, casewidth 38.4mm, case length 39.8mm, Stainless Steel Case.
On a more serious level, although there is no officially acknowledged competitor for Patek Philippe, the new Nautilus range (and what could come later in Basel 2007) to be revealed tonight (11th Oct 2006, Switzerland) may serve as an early warning to ’near catch-ups’ and the more serious players in the technical high end Watch segment; including brands like Audemars piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet and the scores of independent watchmakers named here only as examples.
Ref 5711 is the larger version of 5800, case width 43mm, case length 44mm, calibre 315SC.
Patek today is in an envious position of strength, where the brand equity is one of the strongest in terms of technical watches. Its limited production and distribution strategy in the complicated watch segment and the continuous strong performance of the watch prices in the secondary market have made Patek the "safe" and preferred buy of most watch investors. With conflicting claims of technical breakthroughs and various claims of serious watchmaking by Tom, Dick & Harry - some claims more deserving than others. It is no wonder the "King" Patek may be a little frustrated at times. Though too early to judge, the Ref. 5960 and the Nautilus range could well be the first two of a series of strategic moves to enter into new territories.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5711 sapphire caseback view.
Below is a feature article prepared in advance by our Publisher and Editor-in-Chief Wei Koh, who is currently in Geneva to gather even more information for our readers.
Patek Philippe’s new 6-model Nautilus family is the tangible expression of mankind’s ability to approximate divine creativity. Shown is White Gold Ref 5712, case wize 43mm width, 43mm height, based on the Cal. 240PS, moon phase, date, small seconds, also available in Pink Gold and Stainless Steel, with straps.
AN ICON IS REBORN - PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTLIUS
It is less a sports watch and more an icon of modern horology. Its distinctive Manta Ray form is unmistakable. Like Titan’s Assumption of the Virgin that graces the alter of Venice’s Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the lush arching contrapposto of Jessica Biel’s torso or the heartbreaking visage of actress Rhona Mitra, it is the tangible expression of mankind’s ability to approximate divine creativity. When released in 1976 the Nautilus was revolutionary. It was a bold statement of intent as Patek Philippe’s first water resistant, rugged-bent sports watch and expressed the manufacture’s ability to channel the contemporary current of the modern world in its own definitive way. This ability continues today, expressed by the manufacture’s 5960 annual calendar chronograph that boasts an Op Art informed chronograph mono counter as well as the new redesigned 6-model Nautilus sports watch family.
The bigger Ref. 5711 and the smaller Ref. 5800 on the right.
THE NAUTILUS IS BORN
The Nautilus emerged during the 1970s, a time when the world was undergoing a collective social upheaval. From the world of film where social realist auteurs like Mike Nichols, Sidney Lumet and Martin Scorcese brought cinema to the streets, to the music world where disco, southern rock, funk and the newly emerging punk rock polarized the youth of the day, cultural evolution was stuck in fast-forward mode. At the same time the culture of the sporting life — skiing in Gstaad and plunging into the deep blue Caribbean Sea — had become the recurring motifs of the new haute monde. This world longed to replace the traditional symbols of affluence with its own new language. Amongst these symbols was Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, a slim elegant and decidedly sporty watch that became the hallmark of the new generation’s elite.
The Nautilus was designed for Patek Philippe by Gerald Genta. This was not immediately made known. He tells us: "It was the Japanese magazines that first identified me as the creator of these watches." The Nautilus came out of what is recognized as Genta’s seminal design period during which he also created Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin’s 222 and IWC’s Ingenieur SL. That all of these watches are still as aesthetically relevant today as ever is evidence of Genta’s profound genius. Of these iconic sports watches Patek Philippe’s Nautilus has remained predominately unchanged throughout the last three decades. Such was the power of the watch’s initial design that it was until this year still a watch that was constantly sold out (particularly in Jumbo format) and like Rolex’s Daytona has reached a status of cultural icon. One didn’t simply go to the shop and purchase a Nautilus Jumbo, you had to register your name and endure a lengthy wait that could take a Gabriel Garcia Marquez-like eternity of several years before your desire was fulfilled.
The Nautilus was remarkable also in that it rewrote the rulebook regarding case construction. The case is milled from a block of solid steel or gold. The overall shape of the case is meant to reflect the imagery of a ship’s porthole. The case, unlike conventional watches, is milled to include an integrated watch back. Unlike timepieces that use a separate bezel, case and watch back, the Nautilus boasts one less major seam that needs to be protected for water resistance. Into this case is placed the movement, a gasket, the dial, the sapphire and finally the bezel. The manner in which the bezel joins to the case, sealing it from the exterior elements is also unconventional. Unlike the Royal Oak that utilizes 8 screws that travel through the case and compressed the bezel against it, the Nautilus uses only 4 small vertical screws that thread into the case’s distinctive Manta Ray flanges (revealing their purpose beyond their decorative beauty.) The use of vertical screws at the outer extreme of the case also frees up more exterior space for movements than screws that travel through the case into the watchback. Perhaps it is this unique design feature that led Patek Philippe to consider broadening its range of complications related to the Nautilus.
THE MISSING LINK
In 2005, Patek Philippe unveiled the 3712/1A Nautilus moonphase that used a reworked version of the caliber 240LU movement from the manufacture’s 5055 and 5085 watches. When asked why this interesting Nautilus with small complication has been created, Thierry Stern, the heir to the Patek Philippe dynasty, explained: "2006 represents the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus and so we decided to launch one unique version of it in 2005 as a prelude to this celebration." Because it was soon discovered that the 3712 /1A represented the very last of the original designed Nautilus before the 2006 revised watches were introduced, it quickly became one of the hottest commodities on the market and today sells for far in excess of its suggested retail price on the collector’s market.
Sapphire case-back view.
A NEW ERA FOR THE NAUTILUS
Finally, the time has arrived to witness the unveiling of the new Nautilus. To begin, we have to define one major difference. While the previous Nautilus family was distinguished primarily by size, the new family boasts a full range of watches with different complications. The previous family of Nautilus watches comprised of the highly sought after 42mm x 38 mm "Jumbo" Nautilus with power reserve indicator reference 3710/1A, the same size Nautilus without power reserve indicator reference 3711/1 and the more classic sized 37.5mm x 37 mm 38001/1A. But the new family of Nautilus watches boasts a range of 6 different models featuring different complications including what we will go on record now as saying what will already be the hottest sports watch of the new millennium — the chronograph version of the Nautilus. This reference 5980/1A watch is made particularly appealing as its features the CH 28/520C caliber, a version of the recently released in-house Patek Philippe chronograph movement found in the 5960 annual calendar chronograph. This movement, which was developed by the manufacture’s in-house technical guru Francois Devaud, uses a vertical clutch that totally eliminates chronograph backlash, the jumping of the sweep seconds hand when the movement is started or stopped caused by imprecise meshing of teeth on the chronograph wheel and the transmission wheel that drives it. The chronograph can also be kept running indefinitely with no loss of amplitude to the movement as it is driven directly off the movement’s escapement, making it truly the perfect engine for any sporting timepiece. Perhaps that power of the Nautilus is that its revision for its 30th anniversary has only reinforced its status as the ultimate sporting luxury timepiece.
Some old Nautilus Ads:
