A Grand Complication, We reveal the technical genius behind the 75th anniversary Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a Triptyque.
More on haute horlogerie at our new horomundi site.
Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque, the first wristwatch with 3 faces.
The edited version of this article was published in today’s (25th august 2006) Business Times Supplement, "Champions of Time" (The watch supplement is the result of the endless hard work of its editor in chief, the inimitable Larry Wee), This is the full version of the article posted here to share our excitement over the ultimate Reverso.
After a series of innovative products like Gyrotourbillon, Master Minute Repeater and AMVOX-2, there was growing anticipation that Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre novelties would again be the focus of SIHH-2006. The fact that this is the 75th year of Reverso further raised the media expectation to fever pitch. If the situation was set to a dangerously disappointing anti-climax, The Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque refused to satisfy its detractors and managed to surprise and surpass all expectations.
Yes, the Triptyque is the most complicated wrist watch ever combining some of the most complex complications like the revolutionary Elipse Isometer (detent) Escapement, tourbillon, Sidereal Time, Zodiac Indicator, Perpetual Calendar with Retrograde Date and customizable Sunrise/Sunset Indicator, Equation of Time & Celestial starlit skychart. The most impressive aspect of the watch however is the fact that this is a beautiful symphony created not by musicians but the most creative team of people, who is determined and relentless in searching for a combined solution that works and gave the horomundi (The World of Horology) the first wristwatch with 3 faces.
The idea of a 3-face watch first emerged during a pizza meal in the Valee-de-joux a few years ago. The creative sparks struck those who were present instantaneously as CEO Jerome Lambert decided on the spot to start the development process, together with Marketing Director Stephane Belmont. The job of designing a super complicated 3-face Reverso was assigned to the Creative Director Janek Deleskiewizc.
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO, Jereome Lambert.
Since the first modern come-back piece, Reverso 60eme in 1991, Janek has a consistent record of designing most of the classic Jaeger-LeCoultre watches. If he is seen to be less adaptable to the modern demand for bolder products, his designing skills, technical instinct, creativity and experience remain as one of the most important asset the brand possesses. From the very first drawing draft he submitted for discussion, his brilliance showed. Complications like the Tourbillon (originally a conventional one without the new escapement) at the front, the Equation of Time, Sunrise Indicator, Sunset indicator, Starlit skychart, Celestial time, zodiac signs at the back were already present. In the first presentation to the technical team led by the Head of Development, Jean-Claude Meylan. The general conclusion was that there were technical hurdles which were maybe insurmountable, and they identified 2 likely fatal problems: One, the sky-chart looks wrong and two, the sidereal hour is moving much faster than the Zodiac and the sky-chart. Combining two indicators using one hand was maybe impossible..
Jean-Claude Meylan, Jaeger-LeCoultre Head of Development.
As this is the first time Jaeger-LeCoultre has done a Celestial complication, they had to learn and study everything from scratch. Janek is not a trained astronomer, and his initial design error was due more to what was a logical but mistaken observation of perceived movements of the stars in relation to the Earth as the reference. This was quickly corrected by research and consultation with an observatory. Another little known problem cropped up during the research into the Zodiac Sun Sign. When the Astrological Sun Sign system was set up 2600 years ago, the sun’s path was divided into twelve equally spaced "signs", or example, the period is said to be "Gemini" at a time when the sun was in front of the stars of the Constellation Gemini. The 12 equal divisions weren’t exactly accurate 2600 years ago as the constellation of Cancer for example is much smaller than the constellation of Pisces. The situation was made worse because the Earth "wobbles" as it spins due to the constant gravitational pulls of the Sun and the Moon. In addition, the relative position of the sun "shifted" over the past few thousand years. This shift of constellation was discovered as early as the second century BC by the Greek Astronomer Hipparchus.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Creative Director, Janek Deleskiewizc, a method to his madness.
Based on the same definition, The Zodiac Signs today, according to the Astronomers’ has changed dramatically that most people are effectively reading the wrong horoscope. Worse, there should actually be a 13th sign ‘Ophiuchus’, which falls between November 30th and December 17th. After consultation of a psychiatrist friend by Janek on the dilemma, the decision was to stick to the Astrology version of 12 signs Zodiac which is the only version expected to be palatable to the public. The alternative design should not be a big technical hurdle, as one only needs to create the rotating sky-chart Zodiac dials divided unequally between the 13 signs of different sector lengths, instead of equally into 12. The Manufacture could have created the first ever Astronomically correct Zodiac watch ever, but chose to maintain the sanity of its potential owner.
Critical to astronomers, the Sidereal day is the time that elapses between two successive transits from the imaginary vernal equinox point to the meridian from the place of observation. It is 23hr 56m and 4s long, and the confusing part to the layman is that the Sidereal day is also divided equally into 24 Sidereal hours, so that the Sidereal hour is somewhat shorter than the mean solar hour we are familiar with. While the original design of using a single hand to indicate both the faster Sidereal time and the slower Zodiac signs seemed like an impossible challenge, the solution of the already rotating sky-chart/Zodiac disc as the sidereal hour changes turned out to be surprisingly simple and logical, according to Jean-Claude Meylan, without disclosing the secret. Perhaps, unaware to Janek, his idea is truly ingenious and there is perhaps a method to his madness?
Jaeger-LeCoultre Constructeur Philip Vandel.
The team also decided that the only possible complication on the thin (only 1.7mm in the final product) case carriage is a Perpetual Calendar module, and this is where Constructeur Philip Vandel came in to take charge in modifying the JLC caliber 855 design first used in the 2000 Reverso Quentieme Perpetuel, now with retrograde windowed date disc to minimize the case carriage thickness. There was still no idea how the QP module can be driven until the now retired Design Engineer Daniel Wild (who still visits the Manufacture regularly) devised an out of the ordinary Daily Impulse System, where the Date Change mechanism from the main movement will activate the QP date change through the contact between the centre top of the main Reverso case and the case carriage.
Retired Jaeger-LeCoultre Design Engineer, Daniel Wild.
The constructeur responsible for the Second side complication is Rachel Torresani, who was credited with the year 2000 Reverso Quentieme Perpetuel. Since the celestial sky-chart, Equation of Time and Sunrise/sunset work by ‘knowing’ which day of the year it is, there is a critical need for another QP movement, together with the Perpetual Calendar in the case carriage, the Triptyque is probably the first wristwatch ever to have 2 fully functional QP modules.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Constructeur Rachel Torresani.
Meanwhile, David Candaux has been constructing a totally new Elipse Isometer Escapement based on the old Detent Escapement. The Detent Escapement is much appreciated by the older watchmakers past and present and was developed from the idea that the balance should be allowed to vibrate with the greatest freedom possible. Detent Escapement has proven track records in precision marine chronometers and is inherently more energy efficient and needs no lubrication. Traditional detent escapement however was sensitive to movements. Mild shocks can cause the escape wheel to trip or gallop 2 teeth at one time or even be whacked out of position, ironical in a supposing more precise timepiece. The clever use of Silicium blocking lever pivoted by a second hairspring and the addition of Banking Pins ensure the clearly defined maximum outward movements of the blocking lever. This implementation prevents "Galloping" and "Overbanking" from occurring. Amazingly, the Triptyque prototype passed the Mouton-Pendule Shock Resistant Test with flying colours, a first for a detent based escapement.
Asked if Jaeger-LeCoultre will be concerned with the ability of a detend based escapement to resist daily shock in the real world wear and tear environment. Stephane Belmont explained that the new escapement was first "real life" tested in a Master Eight Days Movement for over a year without any shock-related problem. Ullike the original Detent escapement, which would be totally damaged by excessive shock, "even when the watch was subjected to ‘unreasonable’ impacts, our prototype lost only a fraction of a second and still works". When at complete "rest" or "stop", the watch, however has to be "shaken" slightly even after being wound to start ticking, an inherent characteristic of the detent based technology.
The Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque prototype passed this tortuous Moulton Pendule Shock Resistant Test, where a giant hammer is released and knocked the watch into the containing basket. The final proof that A ‘detent’ based escapement watch can now be robust enough to be a daily watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Constructeur David Candaux.
This is where the Elipse Isometer Escapement was first tested successfully, in the basic Master Eight Days movement.
Tourbillons are most effective when used in conjunction with a detent escapement. This exceptional combination remained the privilege of very few precious antique clocks. With a strong desire to make the ultimate Reverso for its important 75th anniversary, Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre successfully applied this new breakthrough Elipse Isometer Escapement within a carefully designed tourbillon cage. The beautifully polished Aluminium cage with 79 parts, including a stunning Sagittarius Bow Shape Bridge, a Silicium blocking-lever arm and a Silicium Escape Wheel weighs a mere 0.29g. The overall design fits the Zodiac theme and the mechanism was so precise and energy efficient that the team made a conscious choice of allowing the axis of the balance wheel to deviate from the central axis of the tourbillon cage, hence breaching one of the controversial criteria of a tourbillon as defined by the WOSTEP textbook. With the proven performance and a new premiere in watches of the new escapement tourbillon combination, arguing over semantics is least of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s concern, according to Stephane Belmont.
The Complete Tourbillon cage with the breakthrough Elipse Isometer Escapement, weighs a total of only 0.29g.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Marketing Director Stephane Belmont.
The prototype Team consists of Joel Cordier, Richard Rapin & Pierre Desserey. Although they had been prototyping and testing the new escapement with respectable results, when the first complete movement was first assembled and cased, the first assembly miraculously worked! There are currently 2 working (assembled and cased) prototypes and 5 fully assembled movements being tested in the Manufacture. And the 5 movements are undergoing various torture tests as the 2 prototypes are being user tested, flying around the world with their wearers.
Joel Cordier.
Richard Rapin.
Pierre Desserey.
From the first Reverso in 1931, the impressive Reverso Tourbillon in 1993 and the first 2 functional face Reverso Duo in 1994. The Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque has sealed not only the iconic stature of the Reverso range but has firmly established Jaeger-LeCoultre as technically the most innovative force in the world of haute horlogerie.
The amazing Elipse Isometer Escapement:
The Elipse Isometer Escapement.
The Single-Beat Phase, The impulse face or pallet of the roller moves past the escape wheel without coming into contact with the later. The unlocking-pin slides over the blocking-lever. The locking ellipse does not release the escape wheel.
When the turning point has been reached, the balance turns clockwise.
The balance releases the escape wheel : The unlocking-pin rotates the locking ellipse which releases one tooth of the escape wheel.
The escape wheel gives an impulsed to the balance: The impulse pallet, driven by the escape wheel, receives the energy required to keep the balance in motion.
The balance-wheel swings freely in a clockwise direction to the next turning point where it turns and begins the entire procedure over again.
The 13 Sun Signs according to the straight-jacket Astronomers (Have you been reading the wrong horoscope?) 
:
Capricornus – January 19th to February 15th
Aquarius – February 16th to March 11th
Pisces – March 12th to April 18th
Aries – April 19th to May 13th
Taurus – May 14th to June 19th
Gemini - June 20th to July 20th
Cancer - July 21st to August 9th
Leo - August 10th to September 15th
Virgo - September 16th October 30th
Libra - October 31st to November 22nd.
Scorpius - November 23rd to November 29th
Ophiuchus - November 30th to December 17th
Sagittarius - December 18th to January 18th
The Six Patents pending:
1. The first watch with 3 faces
2. The new Elipse Isometer Escapement
3. A completely new Zodiac Calendar system
4. Unique energy transfer system in the Daily Impulse Mechanism
5. The periodical activation system in Daily Impulse Mechanism
6. The new way to lock the Reverso case to the carriage.
See:
Our previous blurb on this article is at http://www.revolution-press.com/news/?p=111
Our first Coffee Break look at Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque here at http://www.revolution-press.com/news/?p=86
Our first look at the watch in our July 2006 issue here at http://www.revolution-press.com/news/?p=87
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